"Ricette e trucchi"
Seasonal recipes and tips

This section is dedicated to favorite seasonal recipes and kitchen tips from my recipe files. I believe that most recipes should be used as basic guidelines, except in pastry making. The cook should be able to improvise according to his or her own tastes, or in response to the ingredients at hand.

First-class seasonal ingredients are, without doubt, the prime secret of an Italian kitchen. Followed with simple honest preparations, guided by tastes and scents, enlivened by the pleasure of sharing with others....

Buon appetito

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P.S. In reading the recipes, please note that OO is my quick way of typing olive oil – extra virgin, of course!

Gifts from the Kitchen

Some of the most wonderful gifts you can give people at Christmas time are foods that you have brought back from another country – things that they cannot get here. But if you haven’t traveled to some exotic land, present your friends with some homemade gifts. Aside from their plain deliciousness, these gifts show more thoughtfulness and generosity than any store bought, mass produced present can.

Homemade sweet or savory gifts are often what I bring for house presents to holiday parties or give to friends who seem to have everything. I hope that some of my favorite recipes for edible presents will bring you into the kitchen to create gifts to be shared with your friends or simply to have on hands for your own private celebrations. Buon Natale.

PAN SPEZIALE O CERTOSINO

This special holiday cake continues to be made by the Carthusian monks of Bologna. It dates back to Pope Benedetto XIV who was born in Bologna and always requested this cake be sent to Rome for the holidays. If wrapped in tin foil and hidden, it will keep for several months.

2/3 C. water
1/2 C. honey
pinch salt
1/2 C. sugar
1T. lemon juice
1 2/3 C. flour
1 tsp. baking soda
1/2 C chopped bitter chocolate
1/2 C golden raisins
1 C. almonds, blanched and chopped
1 C. Mediterranean pinoli nuts
2 C. candied fruit – orange rind, cherries, citron – coated with flour
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. anise seeds
butter

Preheat the oven to 275°F
In a heavy pan melt the honey, salt, sugar and lemon juice with water. Mix all of the dried ingredients and slowly pour in all the liquid honey mixture, stirring until well blended. Pour this mixture into a well buttered tube or springform cake pan and bake for 1 1/2 -2 hours.

Cool on a wire rack and remove from the pan. Decorate with candied fruit or confectioner’s sugar.

PANPEPATO

Panpepato has been enjoyed in Central Italy, particularly Ferrara, since at least 1300. It is quite likely the original ancestor of English and American fruitcake and plum-pudding. The chocolate was added just 200 years ago. Its special “hot” and “sweet” flavors trace it to the medieval era. This fruit bread is a very special Christmas and New Year gift sent from Central Italy to friends far and near.

1 1/2 pkg. dry yeast
4 C. lukewarm water
4 C. flour plus 3 T to dust the baking dish
1/2 C. raisins
1/2 C. walnuts, blanched
1/2 C. almonds, blanched
1/2 C. chocolate chips
1/2 C. mixed candied fruit
1/2 C. honey
1/2 C. pitted dates
1 1/3 T. olive oil
1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp. nutmeg

Dissolve the yeast in 1 C. water. Place 1 1/2 C. flour in a large bowl, add the dissolved yeast and mix until a small ball of dough is formed. Sprinkle with an additional 1/2 C. flour, cover with a cotton tea towel and put in a warm, draft free place for about 1 hour or until doubled in size.

While the dough is rising, soak the raisins in a small bowl with 2 C. lukewarm water for about 1 hour, drain well and reserve.

Chop the walnuts and almonds into small pieces, place in a large bowl. Add the chocolate chips, candied fruit and honey. Cut each date into 4 pieces and add to the bowl. Sprinkle 1 T. olive oil, the salt and pepper and nutmeg into the bowl. Mix well.

When the dough has doubled in size, add it to the fruit and nut mixture, along with the drained raisins. Mix with a wooden spoon until well amalgamated. Add 1 C. lukewarm water and 2 C. flour, little by little, while mixing gently for about 10 minutes.

Use the remaining 1/3 T. olive oil to grease an 8 inch springform pan, then dust with the 3 T. flour. Tap out any excess flour and place the dough into the pan. Cover with a cotton tea towel and put in a warm place to double in size, about 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 400 °F.
When the dough has doubled in size, place the pan in the oven and bake for about 65 minutes.
Cool on rack and remove the pan.

PANFORTE DI SIENA

This specialty of Siena is a famous Christmas treat. Panforte (strong bread) is not bread but a firm, chewy sweet made by baking a mixture of nuts, candied fruit, honey and medieval spices. Originally these sweets were sold in apothecaries, where spices were sold, as they were considered to be pharmaceuticals. In Siena the famous pasticceria “Nannini” makes panforte in a light and dark scuro version.

Because of its rich and intense flavor it should be served like candy- cut into very thin wedges and served with after-dinner coffee or Asti Spumante. Of course you can come into the neighborhood to buy an imported panforte, but send a little love from your kitchen by making one from scratch.

1 C. hazelnuts, blanched and lightly toasted
1 C. almonds, blanched and lightly toasted
1 C. candied citron, chopped
1/2 C. candied orange peel, chopped
1/2 C. candied lemon peel, chopped
3/4 C. flour
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. ground cloves
1/4 tsp. ground coriander
1/4 tsp. ground allspice
1/4 tsp. ground nutmeg
1/8 tsp. ground white pepper
3/4 C. sugar
3/4 C. honey
confectioners edible wafer paper (rice paper) or parchment paper
unsalted butter for the pan
2 T. flour mixed with 1/2 tsp. cinnamon
confectioners sugar

Prepare a 9-inch springform pan by lining the bottom with confectioners edible wafer paper. Butter the paper and the sides of the pan and flour with the mixture of flour and cinnamon. Reserve some of this flour mixture to sift over the panforte before baking.

Preheat the oven to 300°F.
Coarsely chop the hazelnuts and half of the almonds. In a large bowl, mix the candied fruits with the flour and assorted spices. Combine the sugar and honey in a saucepan and slowly bring it to a boil. Simmer for about 2 minutes without stirring after it comes to a boil. Add the sugar syrup to the candied fruits and flour, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon until well blended. Immediately scrape the dough into the prepared pan. Wet the palm of one hand and pat the mixture into the pan, making the top as flat as possible. Sift some of the reserved flour/cinnamon mixture over the panforte through a small fine strainer.

Bake in the preheated oven for about 30-40 minutes. Check occasionally to see that the dough does not come to a boil. It might seem undercooked, but will harden as it cools. Cool on a rack for 10 minutes, then with the tip of a small knife, loosen the panforte and remove the side of the pan. Slide a knife or spatula under the panforte to loosen it from the bottom of the pan and slide it onto a rack to cool. If parchment paper was used, invert and peel it off after the panforte has cooled. Brush the flour and cinnamon away from the top of the panforte and sprinkle with confectioners sugar before serving. Serve in very thin wedges.

Panforte scuro (dark version): Follow the same recipe as for light panforte, but decrease the citron to 1/2 C. and add 1/2 C. dried figs and 1-2 T. bitter cocoa powder.

SALAME DEI FICHI

This recipe for dried fig “salame” represents comfort food in the region of the Marches. In the countryside it was made with sun-dried white figs bound with Saba, grape juices reduced to syrup, and anise liquor. Currant jelly cooked to thick syrup is a good substitute, if you can’t find Saba. Roll it into the shape of a salame, wrap it in cellophane and gift with a chunk of aged pecorino cheese.

8 1/2 oz. dried white figs (Turkish Ismir or California Calimyrna variety)
2 1/2 tsp. Saba/ mosto cotto/ Sapa
1 1/4 tsp. Anisette/Sambuca liquor
1/4 C. walnut halves
1/4 tsp anise seeds

Cut off and discard the tough stems on the figs then chop the figs into small pieces by hand (do not use a food processor). Put all of the ingredients in a mixer or a food processor and pulse, mixing only until it begins to clump together. Set on a piece of tin foil and form into a tight cylinder, shaped like a sausage. Leave uncovered at room temperature for 3-4 days or until a skin has formed. Wrap in cellophane and tie like a salami with fine string.
Adapted from Italy in Small Bites by Carol Field

PARMESAN-PROSCIUTTO BISCOTTI

These savory biscotti are wonderful to give or to have on hand to serve with soup, salad, cocktails or sparkling wine. Pack several of these biscotti in cellophane bags tied with Christmas ribbon to a bottle of Prosecco.

makes 16-25 biscotti

8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 C. freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto, coarsely chopped
2 tsp. coarsely ground black pepper
1 tsp. kosher or sea salt

In a large bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the butter at medium-high speed for 1 minute until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, 1 at a time, beating thoroughly between additions. Add the flour, Parmesan, prosciutto, pepper and salt and beat until the dough just comes together. Do not overmix.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Scrape the dough out onto the counter and with moistened hands, pat the dough into a 12-by-2 1/2-inch log. Place the dough log onto a greased baking sheet. Bake the dough in the center of the oven for 25 minutes, or until the top is light golden. Remove from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 275°F.

Using a serrated knife, cut the log crosswise on the diagonal 1/2-inch-thick. Arrange the biscotti on the baking sheet, cut side up, and return them to the oven. Bake for 10-15 minutes, or until the biscotti are golden and dry to the touch. Turn the biscotti over and bake for 15 minutes longer, or until golden and cooked through. Transfer the baking sheet to a wire rack and let the biscotti cool completely.

MISCELA DI SALE MARINO

Flavored seas salts are all the rage in the gourmet food shops. Why not make your own, at half the price, and package them in pretty glass jars for gifts.

Mix and/or dry roast
Lightly pulse in a food processor or crush in a mortar with a pestle:

1 cup of medium to coarse sea salt to 1 T. of dried spice such as paprika, cumin, curry, saffron, anise seeds, fennel seeds.

1 cup of medium to coarse sea salt to 2 T. of dried herbs / vegetables / flowers / citrus rind such as rosemary, sage, oregano, lavender, garlic, lavender, violets, dried mushrooms, orange, tangerine.

To intensify the flavor of spices or seeds, toast them in a small skillet over medium heat until their aroma becomes intense; cool, and combine with salt. If you are using fresh herbs or fresh citrus rind, these have moisture that could cause the mixture to form bacteria. Either store them in an airtight container for just a couple months or dry the herb/vegetable/citrus peel with or without the salt, in a very low heated oven or in a skillet over low heat.

Infuse
Allow an ingredient to "steep" so its essence soaks into the salt. Simply place a strong-flavored ingredient, such as garlic or vanilla pod, into an airtight container with the salt, shake to mix, and let it sit for a few days--or up to a month.

There’s no limit to the flavors you can create. Here’s a list of ideas:

Per carni (meats):
Rosemary, garlic, bay leaves, sage, oregano, thyme and marjoram
Rosemary, crushed hot pepper, garlic

Per pesci (fish):
Rosemary, bay leaf, juniper, sage, parsley, oregano, garlic
Orange/tangerine/lemon zest, rosemary
Fennel seeds, lemon, rosemary

Per aragosta (lobster):
Vanilla infused salt
Cut vanilla bean open lengthwise and scrape out seeds. Combine with salt in a bowl and mix well to disperse evenly. Put vanilla salt in airtight container with remainder of bean for several days to let flavors infuse. Once flavored, leave bean in the salt and discard seeds.

SALE AL LIMONE E ROSMARINO

This recipe for lemon rosemary salt is from The Italian Farmhouse Cookbook, written by Susan Herrmann Loomis. Susan recommends this wonderful multi purpose seasoning to complement roast chicken, grilled fish, and oven baked potatoes, and is also delicious sprinkled on steamed vegetables.

3 cloves garlic, 2 cut in half, green sprout removed
1 C. coarse sea salt
zest of 2 lemons minced
1 T. fresh rosemary leaves, minced
1/4 to 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Mince 2 of the garlic cloves and reserve the remaining one. Place everything but the reserved whole garlic clove in a food processor and process with 2-3 pulses, just until the salt has been slightly ground and the ingredients are combined. Alternatively you may crush the ingredients together in a mortar with pestle.

Pour the salt mixture into a half-pint jar; push the remaining garlic clove down into the salt, and cover. Let sit for at least 3 days before using. This salt will keep for at least 3 months if kept airtight.

ARCHIVES (For more recipes & cooking tips, click here.)

Summer 2008

• Bruschetta - fettunta
• Calamari ripieni
• Coniglio grigliata
• Melanzane con acciughe
• Pesche alla piemontese

Valentine's Day 2008

• Ostriche gratinate
• Pappardelle maltagliate con funghi
• Tonna al forno
• Insalata di rucola, finocchio e arance
• Bestia nera

Winter 2007

• Purpetielli in umido
• Tegamino di peperoni
• Capelle di funghi ripiene
• "Ciliegine" con speck
• Liptauer condito
• Crostini al ginepro e con burro di acciughe
• Olive cunzati

Summer 2007

• Peperoni inbottiti alla barese
• Conchiglie ripiene al tonno
• Agnello marinato alla griglia
• Patate alla Contadina
• Crostata alle Fragole

Summer 2006

• Summer Salads

Winter 2006

• Polenta

Summer 2005

• Grilling Tips
• Borsetta di formaggio
• Spiedino di pesce dell' Adriatico
• Aragosta alla griglia
• Vendura mista in gratticola
• Frutta alla griglia

Spring 2005

• Dandelion Greens -- Dente de Leone -- Cicorino
• Pancotto
• Cicorino in padella
• Insalata di cicorino

Easter 2005

• Pizza Rustica
• Torta Pasqualina
• Abbacchio alla Romana

Holidays 2004

• Baccala alla Siciliana
• Gamberi all'arancia e finocchio
• Panforte di Siena
• Spaghettini alle alici
• Zuppa di lenticchie
• Struffoli - pignolati - cicerchie - diavolilli

Summer 2004 -- Figs

• Prosciutto crudo con fichi
• Fichi d'estate con mascarpone
• Fichi fritte

Winter 2004 -- Hearty Soups

• Minestra d'orzo
• La jota
• Minestrone alla contadina
• Improvising your own minestrone
• Zuppa alla valpelleunentze

Christmas 2003

• Cucidate
• Fichi ripieni alla Sibarita

Summer 2003

• Bruschetta
• Fagioli, tonno e cipolle
• Insalata di pasta arrabbiata
• Pesce spada tonnato
• Fichi d’estate con mascarpone
• Pesche al vino roso

Spring 2003

• Orecchiete con cime di rapa
• Zuppe di ceci
• Carciofi alla Romana
• Salsa di pomodoro con burro
• Pummarola