"Ricette e trucchi"
Seasonal recipes and tips

Photo credit: Mattia Luigi Nappi

This section is dedicated to favorite seasonal recipes and kitchen tips from my recipe files. I believe that most recipes should be used as basic guidelines, except in pastry making. The cook should be able to improvise according to his or her own tastes, or in response to the ingredients at hand.

First-class seasonal ingredients are, without doubt, the prime secret of an Italian kitchen. Followed with simple honest preparations, guided by tastes and scents, enlivened by the pleasure of sharing with others....

Buon appetito

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P.S. In reading the recipes, please note that OO is my quick way of typing olive oil – extra virgin, of course!

Pastiera

This famous Easter cake is a wonderful survivor of Naples’ culinary traditions and is now much appreciated in all of Italy. Its exotic ingredients are a reminder of the past, when Phoenicians, Arabs, crusaders, and Romans would come into Naples harbor with their bounty of new found spices and flavorings. Whole soft spring wheat kernels (grano) are part of the filling and represent the importance of wheat in ancient Rome as well as the season and the earth’s return to fertility.

Although somewhat tedious in preparation and rich in ingredients I guarantee to convert you to this marvelous and light Easter tradition.

PREPARE THE GRANO

3/4 C. soft wheat kernels (grano)**
2 Qts. whole milk
1 piece lemon peel
pinch cinnamon
pinch salt
2 T. sugar
2 drops vanilla extract
2 T. butter

Soak the wheat kernels overnight in a large bowl filled with cold water to cover. Next day, drain the grano, and rinse it with cold running water. Drain well and let stand in the drainer until needed.

In a large saucepan combine the milk, lemon peel, cinnamon, salt, sugar, vanilla, butter and the drained grano. Bring to a boil and then gently simmer for about 3 hours or until the grano kernel is completely opened. Remove and discard the lemon peel, transfer the grano to a platter to cool.

** already cooked “grano cotto” wheat berries are available ready to use in jars at the Salumeria Italiana, 151 Richmond St, Boston.

PREPARE THE PASTRY CREAM (CREMA)

3 extra large egg yolks
3 T. sugar
2 tsp. potato starch or flour
1 small piece of lemon peel or orange peel
1 C. cold milk

Put the egg yolks in a bowl; add the sugar and the starch. Stir with a wooden spoon until the egg yolks turn a lighter color. Slowly add the milk, then the lemon peel. Put some water to a boil on the bottom of a double boiler. Transfer the mixture to the top part of the double boiler and insert the top after the bottom water is boiling. Stir the mixture constantly until thick enough to coat a spoon. DO NOT BOIL. Remove from the heat and continue to stir for about 2-3 more minutes. Remove and discard the lemon peel; transfer the mixture to a bowl to cool.

PREPARE THE PASTRY (PASTA FROLLA)

6 T. butter (or 3 T. butter and 3 T. lard)
1 1/2 C. flour
1/4 C. sugar
3 extra large egg yolks

Mix the flour and sugar in a bowl. Cut in the butter until the mixture resembles a coarse meal. Mix in the egg yolks. Gather the dough into a ball, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Butter or lard the inside of a 10 inch spring form pan.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.

After the pastry dough has rested, roll it out between 2 pieces of parchment or waxed paper to form a round of dough about 1/8 inch thick. Carefully line the inside of the springform pan with the round of dough, allowing the extra dough to hang over the edge.

PREPARE THE FILLING

1 lb. whole milk ricotta
1/2 C. sugar
3/4 C. finely chopped mixed candied citron, orange peel and lemon
pinch cinnamon
grated rind 1/4 lemon
1 T. rose water or 2 T. orange flower water
2 tsp. orange extract
2 extra large eggs – separate the yolks from the whites
pinch salt
cooked grano
cooled pastry cream

Place the ricotta, sugar, rose water, orange extract, lemon rind and cinnamon in a large bowl, mixing thoroughly. Add in the egg yolks, one at a time; then the candied fruits, cooked grano, and the pastry cream.

Separately beat the egg whites until as stiff as snow. With a rubber spatula, gently fold the beaten egg whites into the ricotta mixture. Pour or spoon the mixture into the pastry lined pan. Cut off the excess dough from the edge of the pan. Form the excess dough into a ball, roll it out and cut into 1/2 inch wide strips. Place the strips in a crisscross pattern over the filling to form a lattice.

Place the pan in the oven and bake for about 2 hours, until browned. If the top begins to brown too early, cover it with a tin foil circle. Remove from the oven onto a wire rack and let it stand in the pan until cool. Remove the springform ring and transfer the pastiera to a large platter. Sprinkle with confectioners sugar and serve, slicing it like a pie.

Serve when cool, or refrigerate and serve the next day. This tastes better if prepared one day ahead and will last 1 week under refrigeration.

This recipe was adapted from Giuliano Bugialli’s Classic Techniques of Italian Cooking.

ARCHIVES (For more recipes & cooking tips, click here.)

Winter 2008

• Pan speziale o certosino
• Panpepato
• Panforte di Siena
• Salame dei fichi
• Parmesan-prosciutto biscotti
• Miscela di sale marino
• Sale al limone e rosmarino

Summer 2008

• Bruschetta - fettunta
• Calamari ripieni
• Coniglio grigliata
• Melanzane con acciughe
• Pesche alla piemontese

Valentine's Day 2008

• Ostriche gratinate
• Pappardelle maltagliate con funghi
• Tonna al forno
• Insalata di rucola, finocchio e arance
• Bestia nera

Winter 2007

• Purpetielli in umido
• Tegamino di peperoni
• Capelle di funghi ripiene
• "Ciliegine" con speck
• Liptauer condito
• Crostini al ginepro e con burro di acciughe
• Olive cunzati

Summer 2007

• Peperoni inbottiti alla barese
• Conchiglie ripiene al tonno
• Agnello marinato alla griglia
• Patate alla Contadina
• Crostata alle Fragole

Summer 2006

• Summer Salads

Winter 2006

• Polenta

Summer 2005

• Grilling Tips
• Borsetta di formaggio
• Spiedino di pesce dell' Adriatico
• Aragosta alla griglia
• Vendura mista in gratticola
• Frutta alla griglia

Spring 2005

• Dandelion Greens -- Dente de Leone -- Cicorino
• Pancotto
• Cicorino in padella
• Insalata di cicorino

Easter 2005

• Pizza Rustica
• Torta Pasqualina
• Abbacchio alla Romana

Holidays 2004

• Baccala alla Siciliana
• Gamberi all'arancia e finocchio
• Panforte di Siena
• Spaghettini alle alici
• Zuppa di lenticchie
• Struffoli - pignolati - cicerchie - diavolilli

Summer 2004 -- Figs

• Prosciutto crudo con fichi
• Fichi d'estate con mascarpone
• Fichi fritte

Winter 2004 -- Hearty Soups

• Minestra d'orzo
• La jota
• Minestrone alla contadina
• Improvising your own minestrone
• Zuppa alla valpelleunentze

Christmas 2003

• Cucidate
• Fichi ripieni alla Sibarita

Summer 2003

• Bruschetta
• Fagioli, tonno e cipolle
• Insalata di pasta arrabbiata
• Pesce spada tonnato
• Fichi d’estate con mascarpone
• Pesche al vino roso

Spring 2003

• Orecchiete con cime di rapa
• Zuppe di ceci
• Carciofi alla Romana
• Salsa di pomodoro con burro
• Pummarola